From the boat......................
Bob
Henegar - Staff Writer/Field Tester
Spinnerbait
Savvy
Style, size, color
Inline
spinnerbaits - I'll use the
weedless style (like a Snagless Sally) in very
heavy vegetation when I know the fish are
relatively active. With the recent popularity of
such topwater baits as the Scum Frog, Moss Boss,
The Rat and other similar baits, this is still a
viable option for a good change of pace. I'll
start out with one in white in relatively clear
water because it matches the belly of a frog
moving through the water. This is a reaction type
bait because the fish doesn't have time to think
about striking it as it's going by.
Single-blade
spinnerbaits - For me, this is the
spinnerbait style I'll use 90% of the time on the
water. It is an extremely, versatile bait that I
can use from in just about any type of cover
imaginable because I've become comfortable with
using it. I've gotten plenty of practice using it
and picked up some confidence in it along the way.
Depending on the light conditions and water
clarity, my favorite bait is a ½ oz. model in
white with a 3-4 inch twister tail for a trailer
and a #5 Colorado hammered nickel blade.
Here
in the upper Midwest, most of the water I fish is
relatively clear and this color is my #1 choice
and typically with chartreuse being my backup
color. Tandem spinnerbaits - On darker days, I
may opt for the same size bait in white with
tandem blades (this time willow in silver and
gold). If this doesn't pay off for me, I'll
switch to black with copper or orange blades. In
murky to heavily stained water (due to heavy rain
and run-off), I'll opt for the chartreuse bait
with gold blades.
When
fishing lakes that are heavily pressured or
during cold fronts, I'll downsize to ¼ oz. I'll
also carry extra blades in different styles and
sizes as well as a variety of skirts in order to
modify the lure if the need arises. Presentation
My favorite method for fishing these baits is to
make the cast just past the intended target then
reel fast enough to bring the lure back with a
boil just below the surface. As the lure
approaches the obstruction, I'll intentionally
run the bait into it then pause for a split
second before continuing the retrieve. Some of
the most violent strikes have either a) come as
the lure strikes the obstruction or b) on the
pause. The fish will dictate what they are in the
mood for so don't be afraid to experiment.
If
I'm fishing visible structure such as fallen
trees, rocks piles, dock pilings etc. I'll fan
cast to the structure closest to the boat before
working the structure further away from the boat.
The reason is simple, I don't want to fight a
fish through an area I haven't worked yet. I like
using white because while I'm wearing polarized
glasses, I can see most of the strikes while
working the bait shallow.
Equipment-
I'll use a decent quality 6 ½ foot, medium-heavy
casting rod. I like this type of rod because I
can usually get the fish to tire out simply by
keeping pressure on it.* The reel I'll use is a
bait caster with at least a 5-1 gear ratio. The
need for such a reel allows you to get a hooked
fish to the boat quickly.* The line I'll use
depends on the water clarity and density of the
cover I'm fishing. As a minimum, I'll use 12lb.
test line and as much as some of the braided or
fusion lines.
* -
These choices are pure preference, so by all
means use whatever rod and reel you are
comfortable with.
Robert
Henegar, Staff writer
